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I’ve written about HK before (here and here), but each time I go I manage to discover something new. Sorry, but I won’t stay anywhere other than the Upper House, so you will have to be satisfied knowing that it still is simply the best hotel experience ever. This time I arrived after a 16 hour flight feeling a bit queasy and maybe a bit blue (feeling far away from my daughter). When I arrived at the hotel they told me they heard I was not feeling well (my driver had called ahead) and even though my upgraded room wasn’t ready yet, they wanted to get me into a room immediately so I could rest. Rather than the extra large room I usually take overlooking the Harbour, they temporarily housed me in a large room overlooking the velvet green mountains of the peak. I felt so cozy and happy that I recovered rapidly and decided not to change rooms. Arriving at the Upper House is like arriving home to a family that has missed you. Hand written notes and gifts wrapped in ribbon from the staff are a special touch. Bliss!
It’s hard not to return to favorite restaurants but Hong Kong always has something new and delicious to try so I make sure to include the best recommendations. On my first night I didn’t want to travel far from the hotel as I was easing my way back into life at ground level, so I tried The Continental in Admiralty. Loved the atmosphere and my perfect sirloin. My favorite meal was a toss up between Chom Chom and Chachawan. I loved the relaxed local street vibe of both and had seriously delicious and inventive food at both. The owner at Chom Chom recommended several dishes that were all perfect, including Vietnamese fried chicken and grilled corn. At Chachawan, I watched the 26 year old chef prepare their specialty Som Dtum Goong right in front of me. It is a papaya salad dish with tomatoes, chili, prawns or pork and it was five alarm spicy and crazy good.
Hard to believe I have never walked the ‘women’s market’ or the ‘goldfish market’ before. Expect copies of handbags from Chanel, Mulberry and Issey Miyake, as well as hundreds of iPhone cases (including a copy of the Moschino Golden Arches red and gold case), miniature wind up toys, silk dresses, backpacks, hair barrettes, and games like Mahjong. I loved walking the goldfish market and was maybe a little freaked out to see a giant box of very loud crickets as food for some of the fish. I would tell you which fish but my Chinese is limited (AKA nonexistent) and I would show you photos of some of the most unusual fish and sea creatures I’ve ever seen but alas no pics allowed. You will have to go and see for yourself.
No trip to Hong Kong is complete for me without a trip on the Star Ferry. I love the wood benches and old school vibe as much as the breeze on my face. It’s a relaxed way to visit the other side or see the Harbour lights at night. The Hong Kong Observation Wheel, a giant ferris wheel with individual enclosed gondolas, seems to have just opened offering sweeping views of Central and Kowloon, but I missed it. And I’m afraid of heights, so someone will have to report back on their experience in the comments.
If one were to die and go to heaven it may look something like a Cathay Pacific First Class flight. I was disappointed when I called looking for a mileage ticket in Business Class and none were available. Alas First was available so First it was. The only problem being that now that I’ve experienced silver caviar service with handwritten notes, my own 100% organic Cotton PJ’s to sleep in, my very own closet with which to stow my own raggedy sweatpants and hoodie, and enough personal space to accommodate a family of three, as well as a sleeper bed that would easily accommodate me and Erela nestled cozily together, champagne on demand, and service with a smile, how can I ever go back to economy on my beloved Delta?
And so that is how I kicked off another trip to one of my favorite cities, Hong Kong. The flight was just the beginning though as everything about this city is first class. Arrival at The Upper House is like arriving home to familiar faces. The staff is young and eager but not fussy and all over you the way some high end hotel staff can often be. They greeted me with a smile, asked about my daughter, Erela, and presented me with a proposed itinerary of new restaurants that I might like based on my previous choices.
The rooms are sublime with sky high views over Victoria Harbor and Kowloon, and as agreed by my driver, simply the best bathrooms anywhere in Hong Kong. Alana my friend, this is the hotel for you! In addition to four perfect croissants (I promptly ate them all and there began my gluttonous journey) and coffee, was a gift of some mandarin room spray in a sexy glass and wood bottle upon arrival in my room. Even the smallest room is a minimum of 750 square feet and has a view. The real treat here, though, is the staff. Kristina, who had been helping me arrange several morning and half day hikes, presented me with my very own book of Hong Kong hikes (another gift!) and the night before departure had another Hong Kong book of collected photos as well as an Upper House duffel bag delivered to my room! How did they know I’d be coming home with more loot than I had room for in my Rimowa?
Hong Kong is a city that is ripe with all of my favorite things in life: afternoon tea, reflexology, wonton in noodle soup, and access to nature not too far from the urban excitement. In addition to working the fabric markets (purpose of my trip after all!), I packed lots of these into my days.
EAT
Start the day with breakfast (and a view!) at Cafe Gray, including a ten grain cereal with stewed raspberries and a pomelo and grapefruit salad. Afternoon tea at Le Salon de The at Joel Robuchon (twice) with my favorite jasmine tea and sweet delights that are as pretty as they are good. Plus I love the oddity of eating in a luxe tea salon located in the middle aisle of a mall with views of the Tom Ford shop from your leather banquet.
Lunch everyday at one noodle shop or another. I hit my old favorite in the Meekok district, sampled new fare at Tim Ho Wan, and on my last day I stumbled upon Mak’s Noodle on Wellington Street. Tim Ho Wan has numerous locations (and a Michelin star to boot!) and in addition to wontons in noodle soup, they have a full menu including some seriously sweet BBQ pork buns (as well as accolades from folks like Anthony Bourdain). Mak’s is straight up noodles and wontons and might be my favorite. They make the dishes in the window and their dumplings are extra tiny which I like. None of these places have napkins though and if they do, expect to pay for them.
I skipped dinner most nights due to jet lag but did make it across the street to the Asia Society of the Arts which houses the intimate AMMO restaurant. They offer mostly pasta dishes featuring seafood and urchin, and I was ready for pasta after a marathon week of dim sum and dumplings. Although I didn’t eat there, I did pop into Duddell’s one day when I was in the neighborhood. A mostly expat escape with a clubby feel and a charming garden amidst the skyscrapers.
DO
This trip I took advantage of the beautiful hiking Hong Kong has available. A half day trip to Lamma Island included a ferry ride to and fro (one has to see Hong Kong island from the water!), a nice hike and a seaside lunch at the port. Another morning had me hiking a portion of the famed Dragon’s Back trail in Shek O Country Park. My favorite was the hike I took the morning I left. Peak Tram to the peak! Nice little hike along the circle path (which would have had insane vistas if it hadn’t been so hazy), and a hike straight down again to Central.
Due to strict orders from the chiropractor (that I mostly follow), I rarely indulge in full body massages and have taken to reflexology instead. There is no shortage of foot massage spots in Hong Kong but this time I discovered my happy place (thanks to the ladies at the Upper House). Ten Feet Tall is a laid back oasis with a beach vibe. White washed wood walls and floors remind you of a private beach club cabana, with privacy curtains and a personal drawer in which to charge your iPhone or Blackberry. I dimmed my lights, hydrated with coconut water served in the coconut, and settled in for necessary relaxation. Twice. At $35 bucks for 50 minutes I would have treated myself daily, but alas the time!
Next time I’m bringing Erela and I really am going to go to Disneyland!
I rang in the New Year in Hong Kong, one of my favorite cities. So culturally different from New York, I know I’m not at home anymore when I arrive at CDG and see the familiar surgical masks that many wear on their face, and I pass through the ‘temperature check’ on route to immigration. This time I asked my greeter if people wear the masks to prevent disease as I once heard they do not act as a barrier to such. She confirmed but then surprised me by saying many of the young girls also wear them if they have a pimple outbreak they would rather no one see! Couple that with all the girls at the mall taking photos of themselves in front of every store window, store ad, logoed wall and random orchid, and I know ‘we are not in Kansas anymore.’
STAY
In order to keep things fresh I decided to stay at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. Right out of the gate (literally), they impressed me by having a greeter wait for my arrival on the jetway and efficiently usher me through immigration and baggage claim. Something else I won’t see back home unless of course I’m Reese Witherspoon. (Wink, wink as I recently ran into new mom Reese at JFK.) The service upon arrival was no less exceptional. The rooms – however well-appointed – felt modest compared to my lofty Upper House experience and left me longing for a view. After two lovely days I missed my Hong Kong skyline view and dutifully checked into Upper House on the 47th floor. View? Check.
SPA
One thing Upper House lacks is a spa. This is where The Landmark Mandarin Oriental excels. I fully spent the afternoon of New Year’s Eve lounging by the indoor pool and reading the new Tom Wolfe. New Year’s Day was spent having a reflexology treatment and reading in the most sublime relaxation room I’ve ever seen. Heated stone recliners and ‘massage’ chairs in the whirlpool round out the experience. Worth the trip and worth the stay if you don’t miss the view.
EAT
Unfortunately I was plagued with stomach issues for the duration of the stay, making a 3 a.m. visit to the hospital for mild dehydration, so I didn’t get to indulge in one of Hong Kong’s best assets: its food. I did venture out for a New Year’s Eve dinner to a local Cantonese restaurant, Island Tang, as it was one of the only spots where I didn’t have to order the price fixe menu. Despite the very ordinary meal of white rice, I loved the art deco ambience and classic feel with servers in white tie.
I’ve been dreaming about the breakfast at Cafe Gray at Upper House for the past year. You can’t beat a homemade ten grain hot cereal with stewed raspberries and a peppermint tea while watching the container tankers and the star ferry cross the harbor from the 49th floor. Good morning Hong Kong!
Don’t miss Yardbird, a Japanese style Yakitori bar just off the Hollywood Road. They offer Yakitori from all parts of the chicken so be sure to try the oyster (the juiciest part) and meatball. The more adventurous among you might like the neck, knee, heart or gizzard. The cucumber salad is a refreshing delight with miso, pine nuts and sesame. Homemade salted peanut butter ice cream with orange zest is the only dessert on the menu (um, yes!). Meet a friend at the bar and enjoy.
DO
I thought I may spend New Year’s Day at Hong Kong Disneyland but alas, my stomach begged me not to. Next trip.
sj's style compass 